This article is also available in: Dutch
In the north-west of fjord-Norway, in province Møre og Romsdal, lies the island of Smøla. Smøla has about 2000 inhabitants and is known for her raw and untouched nature, serene silence, cute fishers villages, cycle and hiking routes and amazing sea eagles. You can rent sea kayaks everywere, go deep sea fishing, go on sea eagle photography tours, visit the wind mills or cycle around the island. There’s so much to do on this small island!
All the way in the western corner of the island stands a small hotel with only nine bedrooms: Smøla Havstuer. At Havstuer they consider the sea and nature as ‘their closest neighbours’ and respect those two a LOT. All rooms have high standard bathrooms, TV and WiFi. They’ve got a large dining table in the first building where everybody can have breakfast and diner together. In the second building you can find a living room with a lot of books, comfortable chairs and an amazing view.
You will never get bored when staying in Smøla Havstuer. You can borrow (free) sea kayaks, go deep sea fishing with the Norwegian Kjartan who knows everything about fish and how to catch them, relax in the wood-fired hot tub or just hang out with the other people and share stories.
How do you get there?
To reach Smøla Havstuer you have to take at least two ferries. We started our trip in Eidsvag that day and traveled through Seivika, Sandvika and Edøya to Smøla Havstuer. Starting from Seivika, you take the ferry to Tømmervåg. This takes about 25 minutes. Drive from Tømmervåg to Sandvika, from where you take the ferry to Edøya. This takes about 20 minutes (the ferry goes once every hour, so make sure you don’t miss it!). From Edøya it takes about 45 minutes to get to Smøla Havstuer. You can navigate to the address: Råket, 6570 Smøla, Noorwegen.
Last summer we stayed in Smøla Havstuer for two nights. Because we had been hiking for 7 days before we arrived at Smøla Havstuer, we decided to take those two days to relax, give our legs some rest and refuel for the rest of our trip. And boy, did we succeed! When we arrived we were escorted to the ‘second’ building (the one on the right on the picture above). This building had one large conference room downstairs and two hotel rooms and a big living room on the first floor. And we had the entire floor to ourselves! Look at how amazing that was..
The hotel is managed by Erik and Murriette. Two Dutchies who decided to take a leap of faith in the direction of Norway to go do what they love. Murriette is the sweetest, warmest, kindest hostess you’ll ever meet and Erik is a masterchef who can do ANYTHING with fish. They made our stay in Smøla Havstuer extra special, because we had two nights of laughter, endless talks and enjoying the breathtaking views with coffee and cider.
Smøla has some sort of magic talent to have endlessly changing horizons. Every time you think it can’t get any prettier, the sky surprises you with brand new colours, different shapes of clouds and rays of sunlight. We took hundreds of pictures trying to capture it, but it’s impossible. It’s way more beautiful in real life! And even though we visited Smøla Havstuer for no more than two days, you’d be surprised how may different skies we’ve seen in 48 hours!
The sunset of our first day exceeded ALL of our expectations. We went inside to get rid of the tiny mosquitoes until we heard “You have to come outside NOW! And bring your camera!”. So we ran outside and the first thing that came to my mind was “This is the apocalypse!”. It looked like the entire sky was on fire! Even the sea turned blood red. It looked amazing and a little bit scary at the same time. But more beautiful than scary though. See for yourself!
If you crossed the bridge between Havstuer and the parking lot, you could walk up a little hill. On top of the hill was a bench where you could relax and enjoy the view. You can see the Havstuer up front and in the back you can see the sun dramatically melting into the sea.
And then we woke up the next day, hobbled out of our hotelroom into the living room to see this.. We asked Erik and Murriette both the same question, but their respons was “You never get used to it. Everyday is special.”
(If you don’t have a strong stomach, please stop scrolling here. There’s a picture of beheaded fishes in the next part of this blog!)
If you join Kjartan for a day of fishing at sea, you can take the entire catch back to Smøla Havstuer with you. And what’s better than having diner with the fish you caught yourself that afternoon?! Erik and Murriette can teach you how to clean and prepare the fish. If you’d like they can even pack up the rest of the fish so you can take or send it home!
Erik, the chef, never knows what he’s going to cook untill it’s time to cook. He waits until the fishing trip of that day gets back to the hotel and prepares whatever the people bring in. It doesn’t matter what kind of fish you give him, he knows exactly what to do with it. His cooking style is pretty no-nonsense. He will never screw up a fish with a bunch of sauce it doesn’t need. He combines the perfect flavours with the super fresh fish with a couple of ingredients to make sure the fish comes into its own. Only Erik’s cooking itself is a reason to go visit the Havstuer!
If deep sea fishing is not your cup of tea, you can borrow free sea kayaks that are hanging from the side of the builing. You can tour along all the tiny islands that lie close to Smøla and if you’re lucky you can even spot some sea eagles! Kayaking is a little harder than canoeing, because it’s way more instable. Especially at sea! So we took a small trip along the tiny little islands, without going to far out at sea. It’s super cool to see Norway from the water! And we could enjoy the complete silence and raw nature that Smøla offers. I can really recommend this!
And ofcourse we could count on relaxing with a cup of coffee afterwards while enjoying a brand new painting of soft and pearly pink colors that the sky painted into the ocean.
Like we discovered earlier that day, the sky changed from pearly pink to a bright yellow within an hour. You will never ever get enough of the sunsets of Smøla Havstuer. They will absolutely blow your mind! And you will never be able to take a picture of it that looks like one you took before, because it just keeps on changing. How special!
I really want to give Erik and Murriette another BIG thank you! They made our stay even more special and we really enjoyed your company! It wouldn’t have been this special without the two of you. Thank you so much for everything and we really hope to see you soon!
For information and bookings, visit the website of Smøla Havstuer.